Komplet standplads glemt på Kullen/i hytten.

Komplet standplads. Måske glemt ude på klipperne og efterfølgende blevet taget den med til hytten. Måske glemt i hytten. Jeg har nu taget den med til kbh, hvor den kan afhentes.

Extending wires - how to.

At some point, we have probably all been in a situation where we had to extend the wire of a nut to prevent the carabiner being loaded over an edge. This is not recommended by the manufacturer of the nuts, but in real life you have to improvise from time to time. I have always extended wires by larks footing another wire. But is this assumption correct?

My traditional way of extending wires.
Based on the assumption that threading nylon or dyneema through the wire would be a bad idea.

Thinking this would be a bad idea? (photo: DMM)
DMM did some testing on the subject. The conclusion is a bit surprising to me. A basket hitched 8mm Dyneema being stronger than the larks footed wire on wire.

Check the video for details. DMM test video and conclusions.

Multi purpose equipent - Emergency Powder Basket

An old saying goes something like this: "All gear carried in the backcountry should fulfill more than one purpose."
On a recent ski mountaineering trip in Austrias Ötztal valley I lost a skipole basket on our attempt to climb Karlespitze. Skiing down an unknown, steep and narrow snow ramp at the end of our rappels, in the increasing darkness, with only one functional pole wasn't very intriguing to say the least.
So something had to be done - fast.




The solution was simple and effective. A Dynafit skicrampon on top of my belay device fits perfectly on the tip of the pole. A piece of cord, which you always should carry, tied to the pole handle held it on securely. I safely skied down, and and used the setup successfully for the remaining two days ski out of the valley.
So there you have it: The emergency powder basket.




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Ötztal 2012

En lille film fra da vi genbesøgte Ötztal i uge 5. Vi forsøgte den samme rute i februar 2011.
A small film from our revisit in the Ötztal valley, Tirol, Austria. We tried the route in February 2011.

If you're having trouble viewing YouTube version, watch it on vimeo: http://vimeo.com/bygballe2/skimountaineering

Redningsøverlse

Lowering vs rapelling in sport climbing?

A subject that is often gets the debate heated, when it is discussed how to retreat from the middle of a sports route.
Some claim that rapping puts less force on the anchor and is therefore preferred, others claim that the risk involved in untying and rapping is greater that the (perhaps) increased load in lowering vs rapping.
Who is right? I think it depends on the situation. Stuff like the surface the rope runs over would also be a consideration for me.
Anyways, Petzl did some testing on the subject and published the results in the 2011 catalog.
Petzl concludes that the difference in force is negligible and Petzl therefore recommends lowering.
Climb safe and make your own decisions each time based on all the relevant factors.

Illustratiuon: From the Petzl 2011 catalog.

Singing Rock preventitive recall notice.

Another product recall.
It seems to be the season for those right now.
Check your harness and take care.
More info on the Singing Rock page.