Redningsøverlse

Lowering vs rapelling in sport climbing?

A subject that is often gets the debate heated, when it is discussed how to retreat from the middle of a sports route.
Some claim that rapping puts less force on the anchor and is therefore preferred, others claim that the risk involved in untying and rapping is greater that the (perhaps) increased load in lowering vs rapping.
Who is right? I think it depends on the situation. Stuff like the surface the rope runs over would also be a consideration for me.
Anyways, Petzl did some testing on the subject and published the results in the 2011 catalog.
Petzl concludes that the difference in force is negligible and Petzl therefore recommends lowering.
Climb safe and make your own decisions each time based on all the relevant factors.

Illustratiuon: From the Petzl 2011 catalog.

Singing Rock preventitive recall notice.

Another product recall.
It seems to be the season for those right now.
Check your harness and take care.
More info on the Singing Rock page.

Tilbagekaldelse af Petzl GriGri 2

Godt vejr på Kullen.

De sidste to weekender har jeg været på Kullen med Kasper Stoholm.
Vejret har været rigtig godt, og vi har fået klatret nogle fine ruter. Det er både blevet til klassikere og udforskning af for os nye områder.
Vi var både forbi Japanervægen, Sexvægen, Bjørnen og Carstens.

High Camp Turtagrø 2011

Nothing short of a fantastic weekend.
The largest group of Danes yet participated in this years version of High Camp at Turtagrø Hotel in the Hurrungane mountains of western Jotunheimen.

Amund en-route to Lauvnostind (Photo: Kim Johansen)

High Camp is a very relaxed and cool ski touring event hosted by Norwegian ski magazine Fri Flyt.
Around 600 ski tourers including nine Danes enjoyed the mostly nice weather and skied all the classic peaks including Dyrhaugstind, Lauvnostind, Steindalsnosi, Fannråken and Ringstind.
High Camp is also a great place to meet up with old Norwegian friends and make new ones. The ski touring community is quite small, even on a Scandinavian scale.

My good friend Kim Johansen took some beautiful pictures. Enjoy some of them here.

Klippeklatrekursus Kullen 30 april - 1 maj

Endnu et veloverstået klippeklatrekursus for Dansk Klatreforbund.
Denne gang i helt fantastisk vejr, med røde skuldre og afskallede arme til følge.
Tak til Jens Peter for godt vejr og tak til Kim for et overdådigt lækkert måltid, der burde lægge standarden for forplejning på kurserne.

Solgerd fører Diedren, K2 søndag.