fredag den 8. juli 2011

Lowering vs rapelling in sport climbing?

A subject that is often gets the debate heated, when it is discussed how to retreat from the middle of a sports route.
Some claim that rapping puts less force on the anchor and is therefore preferred, others claim that the risk involved in untying and rapping is greater that the (perhaps) increased load in lowering vs rapping.
Who is right? I think it depends on the situation. Stuff like the surface the rope runs over would also be a consideration for me.
Anyways, Petzl did some testing on the subject and published the results in the 2011 catalog.
Petzl concludes that the difference in force is negligible and Petzl therefore recommends lowering.
Climb safe and make your own decisions each time based on all the relevant factors.
Illustratiuon: From the Petzl 2011 catalog.

tirsdag den 5. juli 2011

Singing Rock preventitive recall notice.

Another product recall.
It seems to be the season for those right now.
Check your harness and take care.
More info on the Singing Rock page.