Some claim that rapping puts less force on the anchor and is therefore preferred, others claim that the risk involved in untying and rapping is greater that the (perhaps) increased load in lowering vs rapping.
Who is right? I think it depends on the situation. Stuff like the surface the rope runs over would also be a consideration for me.
Anyways, Petzl did some testing on the subject and published the results in the 2011 catalog.
Petzl concludes that the difference in force is negligible and Petzl therefore recommends lowering.
Climb safe and make your own decisions each time based on all the relevant factors.
Illustratiuon: From the Petzl 2011 catalog. |
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